KIDILL Fall/Winter 2025-26: The Formal Anarchist
Paris Fashion Week January 2025
On January 21, 2025 Hiroaki Sueyasu presented his latest collection, “Formal Anarchist”, at Paris Fashion Week, where Endymion had the pleasure to attend the runway show. At the heart of the collection lies the spirit of late 90s and early 2000s called Harajuku in Tokyo, where fashion became the loudest form of self-expression and rebellion.
For those who don’t know, the Harajuku movement in Tokyo marked an uprising of the Japanese youth against conventional norms of fashion and went down in fashion history as a colorful explosion of creativity and individuality. This revolt against traditional uniformity became synonymous with Tokyo street fashion, where everyone’s unique voice is to be heard through clothes and accessories as bright, loud and playful as possible. Self-expression is the name of the game.
Rather than getting lost in nostalgia, Sueyasu transformed his vivid memories into a present-day interpretation of individuality, paying tribute to Harajuku style through a fusion of music and fashion. The looks feature provocative color combinations, contrasting stitch details, and industrial textures like metallic coatings.
On the runway the models’ heads featured colorful imaginative headpieces in a variety of materials which were paired with punk makeup into vibrant and provocative combinations, with a catwalk showing contrasting striped stockings, making a stand against the conformity of the zeitgeist.
What also stands out is the androgynous nature of the collection. While the looks are tailored to fit the faces and silhouettes of the models, most pieces appear inherently genderless, indifferent in their wearability and styling across male and female bodies. The oversized shirts and hoodies paired with colorful stockings made a good look on everyone and it’s refreshing to see a collection that ignores – or rather consciously rejects – the conventional gender divide when it comes to fashion.
What made the show all the more captivating was the live performance of the Japanese punk group “The Seppuku Pistols“, who during the entire show, with drums that made the venue shake in its foundation – produced a truly loudcollection in every sense of the word. To everyone’s surprise, the performance continued after the models left the runway, when the Seppuku Pistols entered the audience with their big taiko drums and turned the catwalk into a dance floor.
The show took place in a vast, bright hall, where the emptiness of the space, with its high ceiling, allowed the music to resonate and fill the air. The runway stretched between the musical artists – positioned along one side, sitting and standing – and the audience gathered opposite, observing the looks and the musicians from a close distance. After the final look, this arrangement made perfect sense, as the musicians and spectators seamlessly created a single continuous plane of movement.
To create this collection, Sueyasu also partnered up with A store Robot, an avant-garde shop founded in Tokyo in 1982 whose post-modern punk collections are quite extravagant. Another major collaboration is with Brett Westfall, a Los Angeles-based artist whose whimsical illustrations feed into the maximalist aesthetic of the collection.
Thus the KIDILL 2025/2026 FW collection is a fusion of past and future, honoring Harajuku and punk heritage but with a fresh take and modern look. KIDILL revisits the past not as an escape, but as a celebration of inherited spirits and a gateway to a future of free expression and individual style for a new generation that longs for rebellion.
Photo credits : Kidill
Fashion writer: Athena
