Haute Couture pour Homme : Interview with Antonio Ortega, Couturier
Self Portrait of the Creator as Artist
Endymion
What do you think of the new trend of many mode femme designers to include the homme collections on the runways?
Antonio Ortega
I see this question from an economic viewpoint because there is a need of diversity within the existing market, so it’s not just black or white. At Antonio Ortega we are diverse and represent all personalities whether that be man or woman. We have dresses that can be worn either by men or by women. I see this diversity since 2014 regardless of color, heart, or skin; it’s a new reality and we no longer concentrate on the difference between men and women.
Endymion
Is there a reason why this trend should not carry over to couture?
Antonio Ortega
No. We have always advocated open – mindedness whether that be toward social codes or codes within couture; it’s important for me to work with open spirit and with a technique which is my own. Antonio Ortega is an open and audacious atelier which listens to the new generation.
Endymion
We noticed some couturiers include one or two men on the runways every now and then, are you doing the same?
Antonio Ortega
In the beginning I did man and women on the runway but the public and the journalists were confused because they were not used to it, but today it comes natural with the spirit of the collections this idea that we do not work only just for men or just for women. However, I feel that for the representation of Haute Couture in general that there are few designers which have this openness of spirit because they are concentrated on a classic idea while respecting certain social codes which are imposed. For them it is very difficult to go beyond while we have been breaking codes for a long time.
Endymion
What is it that regular man’s fashion could learn most from couture?
Antonio Ortega
The cut and the savoir-faire. In ready-to-wear things are ready and I can wear them, it is easier to sell but you lose the idea that an item is well-made, with a nice texture and a good cut. Haute couture is an artisan labor that takes time where ready-to-wear is limited to the budget. Ready-to-wear could use a certain richness so that the garments outside of shows will take on higher quality. Ready-to-wear needs to be inspired by artisan work so that you can learn how to feel the materials in order to know how they react and which personality you can take from them.
Endymion
Will there ever be real couture for men or was that something exclusively restricted to the time of the Renaissance or the Middle Ages?
Antonio Ortega
I’m a tailor so it means that for the clothes we do bespoke. You come to me and we measure every part of your body, that’s what I call high fashion. Even when we do embroidery it comes with the same principle: making one piece one of a kind for one particular person with a very high quality.
You can find (men’s) suits in the market that are very high quality for around 30,000 €. We have special fabrics made for them. So it is not only dresses that one can call haute couture, it’s far from that: it’s all in the techniques we use when we do men as well as women because we know how to change the body shape and this will change the client.
Endymion
We notice that in your man’s collection you work with men – skirts aka the kilt; what are its purposes in a man’s wardrobe and when to wear such a treasured item?
Antonio Ortega
I made some earlier, but I don’t care about the gender. But it is very comfortable to wear a kilt or a skirt. The kilt is very historical and traditional in Scotland and it is well accepted for men. Wearing one is about being firm about who you are and then to choose your options and we like to propose a wide range of choice of clothing for you to have in your wardrobe. This can be shorts or skirts, it doesn’t matter if you are a woman or a man you just have to feel comfortable and we’re very happy to propose something different.
Endymion
Which, if any, colors or patterns are more befitting to men in collections than to women?
Antonio Ortega
It’s about taste and advice, the relation between the stylist and the client. The client will have to trust me and feel comfortable about accepting the advice. Sometimes I have a feeling for certain types of patterns for spring, sometimes I do it uniquely in one tone color, or sometimes I use squares for winter.
Endymion
If you were to design or make a brand-new costume for the main character of the next edition of Assassin’s Creed, what would it look like?
Antonio Ortega
I have the big book of Assassin’s Creed at home, I’m a fan. I think the creation would be about who I am which is very audacious. So it should be wearable, hard, and sexual because for me there’s some sensuality in those characters. The Assassin’s clothes, you can move in them and you can feel the power of the outfit.
Endymion
What is the number one main quality which every good stylist should have?
Antonio Ortega
To be aware of the personality of your client that you’re working for: to listen. To me the most important thing to be able to listen to what the client is looking for. It’s not easy. Very few people are really à l’écoute.
Endymion
Endymion Fashion is a Zine about the male sleeping beauty: what is your advice for his style or how would you imagine the ambiance for such a character?
Antonio Ortega
Is the sleeping beauty a man? I would not put a thing, my sleeping beauty would be naked. A bed with embroidered pieces by Antonio Ortega and not with spikes, because if you are comfortable you can contemplate.
Interview by Mous & Kevin
Photos by Antonio Ortega
