UJOH SS 2025 : Fine Japanese Tailoring Meets Novelty
Wide-legged trousers with deep side slits were cooly chic and created an illusion of changing shapes every time they fluttered around. Organza shirts featured asymmetrical cuts, where one sleeve turned into a scarf, while the other remained intact.
In their Spring/Summer 2025 collection UJOH presented us modern and versatile pieces that seamlessly blend comfort with elegance and that are, in fact, a bold and thoughtful response to the ever-intensifying climate crisis. Inspired by the extreme weather conditions in his native Japan, brand creator Mitsuru Nishizaki reimagined classic tailoring for a modern, hotter world.
Mitsuru and Aco Nishizaki, UJOH’s creators, let their years of pattern-making expertise shine through in the fluidity of the garments and brought their signature approach to tailoring into a new dimension. The pattern-making techniques used in the creation of the garments are specific to the brand and have been developed and refined over the years. With layered silhouettes featuring clever cutouts and lightweight fabrics designed to keep the wearer cool without sacrificing style, UJOH presented at this Paris Fashion Week their vision of the future of tailoring.
The standout feature of the collection was the inventive use of cutouts in suit jackets, allowing air to circulate freely. This playful reconstruction of formalwear aimed to bring new elements to the contracted spaces of the garments created by the cutouts. This idea is brought to life through cropped blazers, worn cape-like over structured shirts, wrap skirts, and pants, all created in lightweight fabrics that retained structure while embracing ease of movement. Innovative shapes and ample sleeves, inspired by kimono fashion work in harmony with the human form and explore the complex connection between body and clothing.
What caught our eye besides the flowing fabrics and structured silhouettes was a compelling color palette, featuring pinstripes in the brand’s signature tones of sand beige and slate grey, alongside a variety of luminous colors such as leaf green, lilac, sky blue and terracotta. These colors represent a positive mindset and play into to the concept of combining elegance and modernity in the collection.
True to the brand’s focus on know-how and techniques, Nishizaki employed the traditional Japanese shibori tie-dye technique on satin pieces, creating a moody, almost iridescent effect reminiscent of a petrol spill on wet pavement. This print, along with abstract geometric swirls, added further visual intrigue, making the collection as visually stimulating as that it was functional.
A notable addition this season was UJOH’s debut collaboration with Reebok, blending sportswear with high fashion. For the first time, Nishizaki reimagined Reebok’s iconic shellsuits, bringing his own minimalist and elegant touch to the 1990s-inspired designs. Crafted from lightweight, water-repellent nylon washer fabric, the collaboration featured UJOH’s signature three-dimensional pattern-making techniques and luxurious fabrics. Key elements like drawcords, an iconic detail for UJOH, added a sporty yet sophisticated flair to the collection. The billowy technical jackets and skirts were layered over more formal shirts and tailored clothing, creating a harmonious blend of casual and refined elements.
In a season where fashion is increasingly required to adapt to environmental challenges, UJOH’s Spring/Summer 2025 collection offers a compelling blueprint for the future and pushes the boundaries of what luxury fashion can be while remaining grounded in both craftsmanship and purpose.
Nishizaki’s vision – a fusion of architectural precision, modern utility, and artistic innovation – proposes not only a solution to dressing in a warming world but also a new aesthetic that redefines elegance in contemporary fashion. UJOHhas left a strong impression on Endymion this Paris Fashion Week with this innovative vision of modern tailoring – and we can’t wait to see what’s coming next.
Fashion Writer for Endymion Fashion : Athena
14.10.2024, Paris
Runway Show Slides Below Courtesy Press Agent UJOH
