Valette Studio FW 25/26 Paris Fashion Week

“Alles Grau in Berlin”

– except for Pantone 18-1663 TPX –

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We used to write that Christian Louboutin is God’s gift to women but leave it to Valette Studio during Paris Men’s Fashion Week Winter 25/26 to prove everyone wrong : he is also God’s Gift to Men.

Where designer’s cut and color palette are concerned this very classy winter collection by Pierre-François Valette portrays in no mistaken way a cold war vibe from the eighties : tones and shades of grey, and lots of black, on white, with the occasional Christian Louboutin red (Pantone 18-1663 TPX aka as Chinese red) visible discretely only from the soles of the feet of the models parading in lacquered and silver-studded shoe wear on the concrete of an abandoned underground parking in the heart of Paris, making the scenery reminiscent of an eighties spy movie before the fall of the wall set in old, dreary and ugly Berlin. 

Please note Hugo Boss would be hard-pressed to successfully recreate such a classy retro look. But that a French designer like Pierre-François Valette can. It’s a mission accomplished.

Everything is Grau (grey) in Berlin they say. But no, not everything, as Valette Studio is imparting its Parisian audience during PFW (Paris Fashion Week) with the certain sense classy suspense that comes with the territory of the heyday of spy craft, intrigue, and political manipulation of the era of the cold war in Berlin that brought a slick design and style for a would-be government agent : the large lapels, the wide shoulders, and the grey trench coats all bearing witness and testimony to this grand occasion – after all, everyone is under suspicion – while Pontet eyewear provides the finishing touch of modern shades (sunglasses), so that no one can see your eyes as long as you yourself are discretely studying ‘the lives of others’ on the streets.

Remember this retro look is from the time from before digital mass surveillance when human observation was still key to the gathering of information. And especially in Berlin at that time.

As for the materials used in the collection the press release spells everything out nicely and therefore no need to copywrite what we are seeing here:

An urban winter collection in wrinkle-free technical wool, wool voile, velvet jersey, devoré velvet on a denim base, shearling and lacquered cotton details.

It’s been said that the Chinese during new year first started painting the whole town and country Pantone 18-1663 TPX red each year to scare away the old sea monster called Nian that came to devour all the villages on the land every year around the time of the spring festival. And that this particular color red was the only color that this horrible monster could not stand. 

So if you were living in cold and dreary and monochrome Berlin in the eighties what better way to protect yourself from harm by your political enemies than by painting the soles of your black lacquered boots or shoes Christian Louboutin red. While you go unnoticed on the streets in one of the many Valette shades of grey. There is a premium on style.

Author : Sandro

Photo credits : Valette Studio

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